During the New Deal era, the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) was sometimes supplied with surplus military garments to meet rapidly growing demand. This raincoat is believed to be one such example. Its design traces back to 1918, originating from the military ponchos worn by U.S. cavalry units.

At the time, the most advanced waterproofing technology was rubber coating. Though modern materials like GORE-TEX are now widely used, this coat already featured underarm ventilation to prevent overheating—details that remain common in contemporary rainwear.

Originally developed as rain gear for soldiers during the final stages of World War I, the coat later reappeared during the Great Depression. While plain-woven cotton was typically used in the past, T.T. chose a fabric woven from linen and Japanese washi paper yarn.

In Japan, washi has long been treated with persimmon tannin, oil, or lacquer to enhance waterproofing and durability—traditionally used for rain capes. Reinterpreting this 100-year-old Western garment through the lens of Japanese technique embodies T.T.’s foundational approach. This concept led to the creation of a raincoat dyed with kakishibu (persimmon tannin), using a fabric that includes washi.

As a special piece, these pants are dyed with kakishibu (fermented persimmon tannin), which has traditionally been used to strengthen fabric. In addition, a unique ink-marbling pattern called Suminagashi, resembling the rings of a tree, was individually transferred from the surface of water.
This marbling technique, originating from a pastime of the Heian period, involves dripping ink slowly at the center of a water surface. Each garment is floated on this inked surface and the pattern is transferred. Due to subtle movements in the air and water, no two patterns are ever the same. By entrusting the final touch to nature, the design captures not only the uncontrollable beauty of natural forces, but also the passage of time as each ring forms.

46% LINEN 54% Washi